Charly & I left Oslo at dawn, catching an early flight to Kirkenes, a town near the borders of Finland and Russia. It was interesting to see street signs in both Norwegian and Russian, hinting at the blend of cultures. After a quick coffee break, we set off on a 3.5 hour drive towards Vardø. We followed the winding road around the Varanger Fjord, stopping to capture the breathtaking subarctic landscape, with a sunset that cast everything in a golden glow that seemed to last for hours.

Our journey brought us to the Vardø Tunnel, which stretches 9,480 feet and plunges 289 feet below sea level. Built in 1982, it was Norway’s first subsea tunnel. As we descended deeper and deeper beneath the ocean, the weight of the water above was almost palpable.

We checked into the Vardø Hotel, our home base for the next two days. After a fresh fish dinner and meeting some of the film festival coordinators, they encouraged us to explore the town. Though it was already 11 PM, the call of adventure won out! We headed toward the historic Vardøhus Fortress, perched on the shores of the Barents Sea. We wandered through its storied walls, discovering that the fortress had not only protected Norway for centuries. The Crossings Film Festival was also showing films on loop throughout the fortress.

In the stillness of midnight, we made our way to the Steilneset Memorial, a haunting tribute to the 91 people executed for witchcraft in 1621. The memorial includes two structures, each filled with symbolic design. The first is a 410-foot-long wooden hall, a dark passage where small windows each illuminate a name and accusation, paying tribute to those who suffered. The fierce wind howled around us, adding to the haunting atmosphere, while the waves crashed against the shore.

The second structure was just as striking, with a metal screen surrounding a lone chair, flames projecting through its seat—the “perpetual flame” representing those lost. Encircling the fiery chair were seven towering mirrors, like silent judges,, reflecting the past and capturing the solemnity of the site.

With no city lights to dim the sky, the Northern Lights shimmered above us, casting an ethereal glow over everything. It was a magical yet eerie experience, one that will stay with me long after this Arctic journey ends.

On to Day Three!